The locking pin that protrudes from the sling mounting tab should be pointing out away from the stock. It may be a little tight but it will fit. The wrap the sling end around the oiler and push the end back through the slot on the other…. This is where I had issues. The mounting tab with the hole was too thick to pass through the slot in the stock after the oiler was installed. I tried some other methods of installation but no joy. After flattening the tab somewhat, I had to use a drill bit to ream the hole back out so that the locking pin would fit through it, but since then I have had no further problems with installing the sling.
Picking up where I left off before the emergency surgery break…wrap the sling end around the oiler and stuff the tab end back through the slot in the stock. At that point, the oiler side should look something like this. Back on the other side, push the locking pin through the hole in the locking tabs. The front is a pretty self-explanatory. Basically stick it through and thread it through the buckle.
Nothing to it. And there you have it. Removal is basically the opposite of installation. The only thing of note is when removing the rear of the sling from the oiler. You may have to hold the oiler in place while pushing the loose end through the slot.
The slot is cut at a slight angle. If the oiler tries to push out of the slot while the sling is being pushed out, it will pinch and bind the whole thing up.
Holding the oiler in place while the end of the sling is being pushed out will make it a much smoother operation. After pulling the end through the cut, remove the oiler, then pull the sling free of the stock.
If you have any questions, suggestions for topics that I may have missed or further information, feel free to comment or e-mail me using the contact me link in the sidebar. I'm pretty sure you have the sling on backwards.
The snap end goes toward the front of the rifle and the buckle end goes toward the butt. That way you don't have so much hassle feeding the thickness of the snap components between the wood and the oiler. My M1's are all rigged as I describe. Not because I figured it out, but because they were that way when I bought em. Removing the sling, using the oiler, and then replacing the sling takes literally a minute or less if slung as described.
Hoep that helps. You don't put anything through the butt slot no, that's not naughty except a doubled loop of sling webbing, stick the oiler in that loop and pull it snug. Dude you don't have a clue! Wow the snap end goes through the oiler and then through the frount sling mount. Thanks for the laughs this is way to funny not to share with my Buds. I think it was Abraham Maslow who said "If the only tool you have is a hammer you'll treat everything like a nail.
Really Dude you need to redo the sling install. Had you taken a moment to look, you may have found that I already figured out my mistake and corrected it…over three years ago and a matter of days after the initial post:. M1 Carbine Sling Revisited. I suppose I should have put a link to that post on this one, but I guess I figured anyone reading the series would have read on and encountered that post as well. BTW: I have always made it clear that I'm still learning and don't know everything about everything…I'm just one ignorant schmuck trying to learn more about the things that interest me and attempting to help others by sharing what I learn along the way.
Thank you for being such a fine ambassador for the shooting community. I did exactly the same thing myself just last week. I could tell right away that something was wrong, because it sure came apart a lot easier than it went back together.
It was a real struggle!! The Carbine has a type 1 rear sight and the front sight is cast, but the two outer wings of the sight appear to be attached separately somehow to the central block in some way, as if welded on in some manner to the sight block.
Most M1 Carbine front sights I have been researching are solid cast blocks with a central sight and the two wings all cast in one solid block.. Are they correct for my Carbine?
Interesting reading. I just installed a sling. It's not as simple as some make it sound. This has always been and always will be a problem area with the M1 carbine.
Witness all the nice old stocks which have been reamed out in the oiler area. Also, note the many surplus oilers on the market which have been "flattened". Post Apr 25, 7 T Post Apr 25, 8 T Post May 25, 9 T Post May 28, 10 T We've updated our Privacy Policy and by continuing you're agreeing to the updated terms.
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Or Learn more Continue. Share Share with:. Link: Copy link. Is there a secret to this? Its so tight. I'm afraid to break the stock. Is it suppose to be super tight? Or am I doing this wrong? I donated to the M1 Family Forum! Yeah, they can be a bitch. First, is the sling an original G. My guess is it's a repo. Here is the trick, I had to do this on almost all 13 of mine, I do have some old "C" style slings that didn't require doing this.
Good hammer and begin hitting the metal on the sling end. The idea is to thin it out. Turn it from time to time and keep trying to get it through the stock, around the oiler and back through the stock. I know it sounds crazy but it's how we do it.
I know of no other trick. The original slings had a C shaped end that was thinner than the repro's we get today. DO NOT start taking wood out of the stock unless it's a beater and you are just look for a shooter.
Hope this will help. So just smash the sling To make it thinner and it will fit easier. Well that makes sense. Also it is a repro, and so is the oiler. Also its an Italian Fat stock. Not sure if that may be the problem as well. This won't damage the sling?
It won't hurt the sling as long as you don't too far. You want it just thin enough to fit into the stock, around the oiler and back through the stock. My son smacked his so thin the metal tab pulled off. NOT that thin. Wait thin out the metal part or the actual canvas part? Just the metal tab.
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